2 Stars
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Heather Crack < Flipside  |  Timothy Twinkletoes > Pig's Ear >>

Good moves lead into and up the shallow left-slanting groove in the centre of the wall.
FA. Robin Miller 1976


How is 5b technical climbing, above quite poor runners that are stenuous to place HVS? I've definately climbg E1's harder than this. Good route though!
RobS - 30/Jun/02

Second the above comments, much harder than The Knutter or Hearsay Crack
CH - 21/Mar/03

Okay if you have the right sized Alien!?
Paul Winder - 10/Jun/03

An absorbing solo!
Dave - 10/Jun/03

gear is fiddly but okay small wires and it's not really strenuous if you sort your feet out.
Matt Perks - 16/Jul/03

Definately only HVS
Pylon King - 28/Sep/03

probably...I guess it's height is a limiting factor. Otherwise you'd expect HVS 5b to be well protected, or have a really low crux. This is neither.
Roberto - 14/Mar/04

2 bits of poorish gear with 5b climbing. HVS I think not.
Jus - 12/Jul/05

E1 for. a good nut slot low down is not of much use then a technical move to flat hold from which to try and place runners(which are good) for the finish without getting horrendously pumped while a long way of the ground. Very nice moves above your gear lead to the top .
Jon Greengrass - 17/Oct/05

Don't you lot own any Peenuts or small cams?!?!

Easy for HVS with good gear where it's needed. Nice moves though, good for it's short height.
Fiend - 13/Oct/06

Gear straightforward to place, not strenuous, fair at HVS.
Andy Hobson - 14/Oct/06

It's a really nice route. It's probably a little height dependent; for the short E1 might be fair.
John Gillott - 15/Oct/06

Did this again today after a gap of 10 years, I always thought it very hard for the grade, found another way of doing the crux which makes it much easier. I'm only 5' 7", the gear is also good.
jim jones - 18/Feb/07

the gear is solid, and the moves are fair at the grade.
martin k - 09/Jul/07

Nice route but gear looked blind and hard won.
Dave Foster - 25/Aug/08

gear is good but beyond the initial bomber wire hard to place and see that the placement is OK. tricky.
paul - 01/Sep/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 95
    hard E1 0 of 32
    E1 0 of 32
    easy E1 14 of 32
    hard HVS 13 of 32
    HVS 4 of 32
    easy HVS 0 of 32
    hard VS 1 of 32
    VS 0 of 32
    easy VS 0 of 32
    hard 5c 0 of 32
    5c 0 of 32
    easy 5c 1 of 32
    hard 5b 14 of 32
    5b 15 of 32
    easy 5b 2 of 32
    hard 5a 0 of 32
    5a 0 of 32
    easy 5a 0 of 32
    3 Stars 2 of 31
    2 Stars 28 of 31
    1 Star 1 of 31
    0 Stars 0 of 31
    Bag of ..... 0 of 31

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