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A Swanage classic. The climbing on the upper pitches is steep and exposed, but the protection is reasonable.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the left-hand crack past an overhang to the fault-line and traverse rightwards to the arete (or better, traverse rightwards at a slightly lower level). Continue the traverse to a belay below a large open groove.
2) 6a, 15m. A very exposed pitch. Move down onto the main arete and climb a steep thin crack to a hand-traverse line across a leaning wall. Follow this right to a final tough move onto a belay ledge above the huge roof.
3) 5c, 25m. Climb the wall 2m right of the corner to a hidden peg. Move left and follow a slanting crack to a rest at the bottom of the big upper corner. Climb the sustained corner past a bulge to a slab and finish up steep grass to a stake belay.
FA. Arni Strapcans, Gordon Jenkin, Frank Farrell 13.8.1978
Really superb. Approach details in guidebook are rubbish. Using map in guidebook, locate the style on the 90 degree corner of the fence, hop over this and go directly downhill about 40m. Do not contour to the right (looking out) towards the gully. Gear up and ab from the big stake here down the very steep grass to a pair of stakes, from where you ab again down the line of Frank's little secret.
All stakes appear totally sound, and contrary to the guide are in situ.
Stake in place for topout once you have negotiated the grass bank.
andy reeve - 14/Aug/07
fricking amazing, get on it
felix - 12/Jan/09
agreed, frickin amazing it is. The 2nd and 3rd pitches are properly steep, no need to worry about your belayer getting hit by the loose shit from the top.
Up there with the classic E5's like Hunger etc in my opinion
Ged Desforges - 10/Mar/09
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