| E8 6b|
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One of the largest roof climbs in Britain. The first and third pitches have not been repeated and the second pitch can still be climbed using trad gear although it is bolted.
1) 6b, 25m. Climb the bulges to a large flake and rest above. Traverse right into the groove, then surge out to good holds and follow the main groove on more big holds until a short traverse left. Guano-encrusted jugs above lead to ledges and a belay.
2) 6b (7c+), 15m. Climb the monumental roof crack, with occasional use of the side wall, to the lip. Pull around to a bolt-belay.
3) 6b, 10m. Follow the continuation crack, on blocky holds, to belay to the right of a slab (2 threads and a bolt).
4) 5b, 15m. Exit easily (as for The Schwarzechild Radius).
FA. M.Boater, P.Deketelaere 6-8.8.1970. FFA. Pete Oxley 3.12.1988