Crew Pegs Diffs

1 Stars
 E3 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Pig's Ear < Deep Chimney  |  An Embarrasment of Riches > No More Excuses >>


Climb the arete of Deep Chimney then move right to the hanging groove - hard. Improving holds are used to reach a wide break and an easy finish. A direct version straight over the bulging nose via a brittle flake is the neglected Suitored, E4 6a.
FA. Steve Bancroft 1977

USER COMMENTS

Good route which deserves more traffic. Without giving away the beta, you can protect the crux with a runner in the crack just left of the arete, but with a very long sling to an opposing nut low and right, which helps avoid horrendous rope drag later. Pocket takes an OK friend (I think I used a 1) and, although upper groove is easy, it's really scary unless you take some big friends (size 5 or 6, I guess, but I didn't!) for the wide upper breaks.
profonrock - 20/May/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 3
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