Crew Pegs Diffs

1 Stars
Fluttery
 E3 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Pig's Ear < Deep Chimney  |  No More Excuses > The Knutter >>


8m. Climb the arete of Deep Chimney then move right to the hanging groove. Improving holds are used to reach a wide break and a much easier finish.
FA. Steve Bancroft 1977

USER COMMENTS

Good route which deserves more traffic. Without giving away the beta, you can protect the crux with a runner in the crack just left of the arete, but with a very long sling to an opposing nut low and right, which helps avoid horrendous rope drag later. Pocket takes an OK friend (I think I used a 1) and, although upper groove is easy, it's really scary unless you take some big friends (size 5 or 6, I guess, but I didn't!) for the wide upper breaks.
profonrock - 20/May/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

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