Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 3
Climb the arete of Deep Chimney then move right to the hanging groove - hard. Improving holds are used to reach a wide break and an easy finish. A direct version straight over the bulging nose via a brittle flake is the neglected Suitored, E4 6a.
Good route which deserves more traffic. Without giving away the beta, you can protect the crux with a runner in the crack just left of the arete, but with a very long sling to an opposing nut low and right, which helps avoid horrendous rope drag later. Pocket takes an OK friend (I think I used a 1) and, although upper groove is easy, it's really scary unless you take some big friends (size 5 or 6, I guess, but I didn't!) for the wide upper breaks.