Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 17
The top of the second pitch of this climb is reported to be in a very dangerous state. Start at the foot of a diagonal crack.</br>1) 4a, 15m. Ascend the crack rightwards and over a bulge to come back left up another crack. Belay at an overhung ledge.</br>2) 4c, 15m. Traverse a ledge on the right and climb a delicate slab rightwards to finish up a very unstable-looking flake.
Most of the exit flake on pitch 2 has fallen down - this section now looks very unstable. A safer finish is to climb straight up from the start of the traverse on pitch 2 at VS 4c (the top half of Parallel Lines)
Ignore my previous comment! The section of the flake which was hanging precariously over the top corner has now gone too, leaving a finish which seems safe and solid by Swanage standards, with excellent protection. The new finish is a bit harder than anything on the original route, upping the grade to HS, 4b.
an intresting if not intimedating finsh, very lose.
Glad others found it loose! 2nd pitch requires courage and we also backed up the stake belay with a post [although found another stake just further on the right later]
There has been another rockfall this year (Summer 2004), just to the right of the final corner. The top section seemed like VS now.
I did this in March '04 and thought the original finish looked pretty horrific. I also finished direct at about VS 4c.
Best be quick before the whole thing goes!