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A strange first pitch requiring a whole variety of techniques. Start at a recess 8m right (looking in) of the left-hand corner.
1) 5b, 12m. From the recess gain the overhanging corner. Lean out to chimney up the hanging wall behind, trending rightwards into a groove. Climb the groove to a stance on the left.
2) 5b, 12m. Climb direct past a flake (thread) to a vague and serious finish - pre-placed belay rope advised. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Richard Crewe, Des Marshall 11.10.75. Pitch 2 - George Hounsome, Scott Titt 1.6.80