Dougal the Great
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A big route taking a huge diagonal line to finish at a high leaning chimney. Start near the right-hand side of the low cave roof.
1) 6c, 30m. Go direct over two roofs (peg and wedge) to join Race for the Oasis. Traverse 10m left under the roofs (thread and 3 old studs) to a peg. Power around the roof and continue up the steep wall (2 threads and a peg) to a small recessed ledge. Peg and nut belay. Watch out for rope drag.
2) 5c, 20m. Climb the bulging wall above from the left-hand side (thread) to a jutting ledge (thread). Finish diagonally leftwards, on shattered rock, to exit up the chimney.
FA. Pete Oxley, Jon Biddle 12.2.1988. Formerly an A3 aid route.