Dougal the Great
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A big route taking a huge diagonal line to finish at a high leaning chimney. Start near the right-hand side of the low cave roof.</br>1) 6c, 30m. Go direct over two roofs (peg and wedge) to join Race for the Oasis. Traverse 10m left under the roofs (thread and 3 old studs) to a peg. Power around the roof and continue up the steep wall (2 threads and a peg) to a small recessed ledge. Peg and nut belay. Watch out for rope drag.</br>2) 5c, 20m. Climb the bulging wall above from the left-hand side (thread) to a jutting ledge (thread). Finish diagonally leftwards, on shattered rock, to exit up the chimney.
FA. Pete Oxley, Jon Biddle 12.2.1988. Formerly an A3 aid route.