Race for the Oasis
<< None < Dougal the Great | Sons of Pioneers > Tudor Rose >>
A wandering outing but with good pitches. Start at the very right-hand side of the low roof.
1) 6a, 25m. Gain a chimney and traverse left for 8m (peg under the strip roof) then move up to a peg below another roof. Swing out to a bottomless small groove and climb its left-hand side via a fingery rib before trending right to join Tudor Rose. Hanging belay at the right-hand end of a narrow roof.
2) 5b, 10m. Move left for 3m and climb a shallow groove. At the top of this traverse left again, and down, to the recessed belay on Dougal the Great.
3) 5c, 30m. Head diagonally rightwards to the fault-line and swing along to a good ledge (peg). From the left-hand side reach a peg, step left and move boldly up the wall to good finishing holds. Exit right then left up an easy groove.
FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 27.11.1982
Did this in 1990 with Andy Donson. First pitch much harder than the rest, and gives very awkward climbing. But very atmospheric and well worth doing.
francis - 07/Sep/09
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