Sons of Pioneers
| E6 6b|
<< Dougal the Great < Race for the Oasis | Tudor Rose > Facedancin' >>
Very intricate route finding and another set of bold and interesting link-ups. Start as for Race for the Oasis.</br>1) 6a, 18m. A bold pitch. From the chimney, move left for 3m then drop out and around the roof (crucial medium cam ) to follow a right-leading handrail for 3m. Cross the bulge above to the foot of a slight corner on Tudor Rose. Peg and nut belay.</br>2) 6b, 10m. From the top of the corner move up right to a horizontal break in a bulge (peg). Make wild moves over the bulge onto the lip. Multiple large to medium cam belay.</br>3) 6a, 20m. Just right of an ammonite, climb the bold wall to wires. Trend right to a square-cut niche below the headwall. Climb direct (peg) to the top ledge. Move right to an exit corner.
FA. Martin Crocker, Nigel Coe 28.8.1994