<< Race for the Oasis < Sons of Pioneers | Facedancin' > Oceanid >>
A remote route that takes a looping line across the hanging wall above the sea cave, then back across the capping white wall. Start at the right-hand end of the sea cave overhangs.
1) 5b, 42m. Move onto a ledge and pull up a short, steep wall to a slab on the right. Move steeply up left to a crack-line and jugs. Traverse left to a tiny short corner and rest ledge at its top. Move left to a short right-facing corner, then traverse left once again to the base of a corner/groove line. Climb this past the mid-height fault-line to a belay on ledges above.
2) 5b, 25m. From the right-hand end of the ledge move up a flake, and into a shallow groove on the left. Make a tricky move to a good horizontal crack above, then traverse rightwards to a narrow ledge. Move right along the ledge to a blocky corner and climb this with care to the top. Belay on fence posts.
FA. Richard Crewe, P.Charman 5.5.1974
Brilliant route, you may as well lead the first pitch as second it so it requires a balanced team.
Al Evans - 28/Aug/01
Excellent route. Agree that it is intimidating to second pitch 1 but the moves are not too desperate.
E2 for situation. Its a shame that pitch 2 eases off so much after reaching the break - still ***
GrahamD - 12/Nov/01
Splendid and slightly reminiscent of South Stack
Ian Jones - 28/Aug/05
Fantastic route, even if the difficulties on pitch 2 are so short lived.
C.E. Moreton - 12/Dec/05
nice route, interesting line. second pitch is not for shorties!
ian bryant - 02/Feb/06
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