Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 26
Stupendous wall climbing up the best line on the face. The climbing is hard, and high in the grade, but the gear is very good on the hardest sections. Start as for Tudor Rose at the right-hand end of the sea cave overhangs.</br>1) 6a, 25m. Follow Tudor Rose to the good, small rest ledge on its traverse and then climb up to a narrow overhang. Move up to the groove above and make a very hard move to enter it and exit right to a good hold. Climb the short wall above to the fault-line and a hanging belay on nuts, cams and a thread.</br>2) 6a, 25m. From the fault-line, move up right for 5m and then step left to a foot-ledge. Move up to the base of the white wall, then climb thin breaks and flakes, past twin pegs, to another peg, and a final, long move to a good hold just below a long ledge. Stand on the ledge, and traverse rightwards to a blocky corner. Climb this with care to the top. Belay on fence posts.
Both pitches are fantastic. Nice climbing with good protection.
You can do the whole lot in one pitch and still reach the fencepost with 55m ropes (50m will probably just make it too).
You have to trust the pegs on pitch 2. Also run out above belay. Very good.
i just reached the fence posts with a 50m rope
The pegs on the second pitch are starting to show their age. I think the first pair can be backed up but I'm not sure that the higher peg can be. They're probably still okay for the moment but get it done soon!
I disagree with the description that 'the gear is very good on the hardest sections'.