Facedancin'

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 E3 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Sons of Pioneers < Tudor Rose  |  Oceanid > Fly Crazy But Free >>


Stupendous wall climbing up the best line on the face. The climbing is hard, and high in the grade, but the gear is very good on the hardest sections. Start as for Tudor Rose at the right-hand end of the sea cave overhangs.
1) 6a, 25m. Follow Tudor Rose to the good, small rest ledge on its traverse and then climb up to a narrow overhang. Move up to the groove above and make a very hard move to enter it and exit right to a good hold. Climb the short wall above to the fault-line and a hanging belay on nuts, cams and a thread.
2) 6a, 25m. From the fault-line, move up right for 5m and then step left to a foot-ledge. Move up to the base of the white wall, then climb thin breaks and flakes, past twin pegs, to another peg, and a final, long move to a good hold just below a long ledge. Stand on the ledge, and traverse rightwards to a blocky corner. Climb this with care to the top. Belay on fence posts.
FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 8.1.1983

USER COMMENTS

Both pitches are fantastic. Nice climbing with good protection.
stone - 31/May/01

You can do the whole lot in one pitch and still reach the fencepost with 55m ropes (50m will probably just make it too).
matt perks - 26/Oct/04

You have to trust the pegs on pitch 2. Also run out above belay. Very good.
Ian Jones - 28/Aug/05

i just reached the fence posts with a 50m rope
felix - 11/Dec/06

The pegs on the second pitch are starting to show their age. I think the first pair can be backed up but I'm not sure that the higher peg can be. They're probably still okay for the moment but get it done soon!
matt perks - 01/Mar/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 23
    hard E4 0 of 8
    E4 0 of 8
    easy E4 0 of 8
    hard E3 5 of 8
    E3 3 of 8
    easy E3 0 of 8
    hard E2 0 of 8
    E2 0 of 8
    easy E2 0 of 8
    hard 6b 0 of 8
    6b 0 of 8
    easy 6b 0 of 8
    hard 6a 0 of 8
    6a 4 of 8
    easy 6a 3 of 8
    hard 5c 1 of 8
    5c 0 of 8
    easy 5c 0 of 8
    3 Stars 7 of 7
    2 Stars 0 of 7
    1 Star 0 of 7
    0 Stars 0 of 7
    Bag of ..... 0 of 7

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