Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 37
The dominating central crack-line. Steep, strenuous and intimidating and with some loose rock on pitch two. Start 5m right of Tudor Rose on a boulder pile.</br>1) 5a, 20m. From the top of the boulders, move out left across a slab to the base of a broken crack-line. Follow the crack-line, past a niche, and move right to a thread belay on a ledge on the slab.</br>2) 5b, 30m. Climb up left to the fault-line and gain the wall passing a bulge on the left. Follow a steep groove direct, stepping left at its top. Pass a big wedged-in block to gain the exit corner. A couple of large cams are useful on this pitch.
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Quite serious first pitch, with some loose rock when I did it. The peg in the first pitch is useless rust.
First pitch is not serious now, a good well protected pitch. We pulled some loose stuff off at the top of the second pitch but it left solid rock behind, Steady for the grade and worth 2 stars.
WARNING LOOSE ROCK. My partner manage to pull off one of the 'funny blocks' (60cm cube )on the second pitch taking a large fall but luckily escaping with bruises. I knocked off a further 50kg block when retrieving the gear on abseil but the route has further LOOSE ROCK. There is a possible further, larger loose block (500kg+). Route needs to be checked on abseil prior to any more ascents.
A couple of blokes climbed it this weekend whilst we were on Tudor Rose without any undue problems, so don't be put off by the above comments. The top groove will always be loose but then you wouldn't exactly climb at swanage if you were averse to the odd few kilos of rubble
agreed - climbed it in october and there was some looseness at the top, but nothing untoward for swanage. and first pitch is now solid
Yeah, I would say the finish is worrying but probably fine. Just don't belay in the line of fire.
Iíve been climbing at Guillemot Ledge today.
The amazing loose spike is still there and looks great but it probably should be cleaned and then it would be a *** route.
this has obviously got a lot loser since I did it '88 although care was needed. So much for routes cleaning up with traffic! Not a great route but hard work.
Excellent route, steep sustained and very satisfying. Was a bit loose (don't think itís seen much traffic recently) think we cleaned it up a bit though. Climbed around the big scary block at the top no worries.
seemed very steady. no really hard bits just sustained crack climbing and jug pulling. then some tip toeing around the blocks at the top!