Fly Crazy But Free

2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 E5 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Facedancin' < Oceanid  |  Warlord > Vikings >>


Technical and pumpy climbing blasting up the white face just right of Oceanid pitch 2. An airily-positioned top pitch that is high in the grade.
1) 5a, 20m. As for Oceanid.
2) 6b, 30m. Climb diagonally left then back right, above an overhang, to a small ledge (peg). Swing left and pass a niche to ascend twin cracks above. A hard move on the left gains a good horizontal break. Continue up the technical, leaning headwall (2 pegs) to the top.
FA. Martin Crocker, D.Light 26.9.1983

USER COMMENTS

Definately E6 6b. It is worth French 7b. E5 with knowledge but not for the onsight. The CC guidebook
states that Martin Crocker did it yo yo style. Does this mean he has not done it bottom to top, placing
all the gear on the lead? I have had 2 attempts bottom up and placing gear and still failed after doing numerous
other E5 6b's. Both my seconds, on each attempt would agree with me, Mark Glaister and Rob Kennard.
Fantastic route, but undergraded
Richard White - 06/Sep/00

I've been dragged up it. It is certainly hard and pumpy. The gear is great though, so if you are up to this kind of grade it is a good one to throw yourself at.
matt perks - 26/Oct/04

awesome pitch, safe as houses but hard! fell off the onsight. If you get the sequence wrong on the headwall you're in trouble, but once you know what to do it's a brilliant sequence. Easily 7b. Just brilliant climbing
Ged Desforges - 10/Mar/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 6
    hard E6 0 of 2
    E6 0 of 2
    easy E6 1 of 2
    hard E5 1 of 2
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    hard 6b 1 of 2
    6b 1 of 2
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    hard 6a 0 of 2
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    3 Stars 1 of 2
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