2 Stars
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Fly Crazy But Free < Warlord  |  Caiaphas > Deaf Mosaic >>

Three fine pitches right of Warlord. Technical and sustained with small wires essential. Start 20m right of Oceanid at two converging cracks. The finish to the top pitch needs care.</br>1) 5a, 22m. Climb halfway up the right-hand crack, then step left into a scoop. Ascend a short corner to a slab, then traverse along until is possible to reach the higher slab (peg). Continue left to the belay on Oceanid. Friable rock.</br>2) 5c, 10m. Trend right to the roof (large cam) then move over this. Undercut right along the lip then move up to belay (peg) below a short corner in the next roof.</br>3) 6a, 20m. Gain a corner and pull over the roof onto a narrow ledge (peg). Climb the wall just right (bold) to a rest in a flake-crack, then tackle the steep white wall on the left.
FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 21.8.1983


This description is not accurate. On the first pitch it's not clear what is meant by the converging cracks, though the scoop, and moves left onto the slab, are clear enough. This is all on very friable rock. On reaching the slab just traverse horizontally left to reach the thread belay on Oceanid. The next pitch moves up to the roof and crosses it directly above the belay (no sloping ledge) before undercutting right as described. The third pitch pulls over the roof (totally wild) onto the narrow ledge and then climbs the wall more or less as described, however, the moves to leave the narrow ledge are hard and there is no decent gear (there are wires in a flake on the left but this is detached) though there is good gear again higher up. I'm glad I was seconding this one.
matt perks - 22/Nov/04

i'd second matt's comments above. teh first pitch is not nice and we kicked off a very large very loose block which seemed ready to drop just where your belayer would be standing. the rock on the first and second pitch is very sandy and quite friable. the second belay seems to typically be on what is a loose block so we arranged another in teh roof off to the right. the three stars are really all for the last pitch, which is superb but hard, but the gear is poor (nothign to protect the moves through the roof) and there's potential to fall onto the belay (even with the side wires that matt metions) as the hard moves are all over before you get a very good piece in.
that said, i thought it was fantastic and a real hard adventure route!
ian bryant - 17/Sep/12

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.