The Heat

1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
 E4 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< August Angie < Necromancy  |  The Big Heat > Mañana >>


A big pitch with quality moves but little gear. Start beneath a large roof at 15m.
1) 5c, 15m. A short wall leads to a ledge (peg). Move left (peg) then climb direct on blind edges to a ledge. Serious.
2) 5b, 20m. Follow a corner and trend right then left past a fault-line to a nose (peg). Traverse left to a V-shaped overhang.
FA. Brian Snell, W.Lyons 7.4.1974. FFA. George Hounsome, G.De Lacy

USER COMMENTS

The first pitch feels harder than the grade suggest's due to the lack of reliable gear, excellent moves!
Brian Tilley - 26/Mar/00

Not a regular trad climber, but I found the first pitch pretty harrowing. Poss. groundfall on crux as I doubt the peg would hold a fall from a bloater like me! Not desperate, but thin and technical.
steve taylor - 01/Apr/03

Very bold. This is a scary E4 not E3. The peg is poor and there is little other reliable gear. A cluster of small things in a flake on the right might slow you down a bit, maybe! Good moves, but as Steve says "pretty harrowing" Do not fall off this one!
Richard White - 05/Jul/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 8
    hard E5 0 of 0
    E5 0 of 0
    easy E5 0 of 0
    hard E4 0 of 0
    E4 0 of 0
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    hard E3 0 of 0
    E3 0 of 0
    easy E3 0 of 0
    hard 6a 0 of 4
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    easy 6a 0 of 4
    hard 5c 2 of 4
    5c 2 of 4
    easy 5c 0 of 4
    hard 5b 0 of 4
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    easy 5b 0 of 4
    3 Stars 0 of 4
    2 Stars 2 of 4
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