Tensor II Top 50

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Mañana < Funeral Pyre  |  Strapiombo > Helen's Return >>


One of the very best VSs at Swanage. Both technical and sustained, but furnished with good protection. Start at a raised ledge below a corner next to a massive boulder.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner until level with an overhang on the left. Traverse beneath this and pull up the wall on good holds to a good ledge and huge flake belay.
2) 5a, 15m. Stand on the flake, then either climb with difficulty direct to the next wide break, or at about the same difficulty, step left and move up to the break. Climb past the overhang above on its left, and finish up the corner above.
FA. Brian Snell, W.Lyons 8.12.1973

USER COMMENTS

V. good, though first pitch can be sandy.
rob - 16/Mar/00

One of the best routes of the grade at Swanage. Safe, but don't fill the pocket with gear else you can't use it.
A. Perry - 25/Aug/00

Brilliant route ... good gear, good climbing. Well worth repeating
Jason - 15/Jan/01

good varied route
ian - 12/May/02

Interesting traverse left for a beginner! closest I've been to giving up clmbing.
Paul - 19/Jun/02

Excellend route well enjoyed. But make sure you protect the traverse for your second otherwise they could be in for a big swing.
chuck - 20/Sep/04

A nice well protected VS. A route to do again.
Jon Greengrass - 22/Apr/05

I think 3 stars is a going over the top here considering the first pitch is so sandy.
Dan Gibson - 24/Jul/06

Lovely committing moves left under the roof on undercuts, and no sign of the sand that others have referred to. Top pitch has a tough two-move 5a slab and a delightful finishing groove. Brilliant!
John Parker - 15/Aug/10

8/4/14 - Nice and straightforward with good gear and plenty of holds. a stiff short pull out of the overhang to the belay ledge. Two moves across the slab (thin but all there ) little silver super light rock in the pocket.
Mark Reed - 09/May/14

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 97
    hard HVS 0 of 33
    HVS 0 of 33
    easy HVS 5 of 33
    hard VS 10 of 33
    VS 18 of 33
    easy VS 0 of 33
    hard HS 0 of 33
    HS 0 of 33
    easy HS 0 of 33
    hard 5b 0 of 34
    5b 0 of 34
    easy 5b 0 of 34
    hard 5a 11 of 34
    5a 19 of 34
    easy 5a 2 of 34
    hard 4c 2 of 34
    4c 0 of 34
    easy 4c 0 of 34
    3 Stars 11 of 30
    2 Stars 18 of 30
    1 Star 1 of 30
    0 Stars 0 of 30
    Bag of ..... 0 of 30

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.