Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 33
A direct corner and crack climb starting as for Tensor II. Follow a corner past a spike and peg to pass a big roof on the right. A chimney allows access to the fault-line and a huge ledge (possible belay). Climb the continuation crack to the top. A helmet jam has been used to great effect by more than one team on this route.
I found the crux daunting but very straightforward with the use of a cunning helmet jam (more a helmet lean)at the bottom of the chimney -perhaps this is one of those 'trick move' routes.
hmm, got to the move and suddenly remembered having read the comments above re the helmet jam - very effective. shame the route quickly fades into choss after that though 'cos up til then it was worth 3 stars.
glad to hear it wasn't just me to stick my head in it
the helmet jam does the trick again !
The crux is certainly daunting, there certainly aint no holds to help past the crack, but a full body squirm up into the chimney does the trick. The top out is rubbish and I had a wobbler on the upper choss.
You can traverse onto the face to the right, do a high rockover onto the left foot and reach back into the crack with your left hand above the roof. About English 5b. Very unsporting of course.
The upper section seemed solid enough to me; solid and well-protected throughout in fact. It's a good route.
I have climbed the hanging groove in the arete between Strapiombo and Tensor II. Go up Strapiombo to the roof, step left, pull around the roof and fire up the groove to a good jug where the climbing relents. Well-protected. Possibly E1 5b/c. On the off-chance that it hasn't been done before then an unimaginative but appropriate name is "The Flying Groove".