Ledgend

1 Stars
Loose
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Strapiombo < Helen's Return  |  Graffiti Bombers of New York City > Ledgend Direct >>


A popular but wandering outing. Start below a big flake-crack in a steep wall 60m east of the abseil (right - looking in).

1) 4b, 25m. A crack leads up rightwards to gain a flake. Follow this to its top. Climb a corner on the right to the fault-line, then traverse right to belay on a ledge.
2) 4a, 15m. Step right off the ledge then move up for 5m. Traverse left to reach the quarry. Care required with loose flakes.
FA. D.Burgess, J.Allen, R.Colledge 11.4.1966

USER COMMENTS

Care required on the top pitch ... the flakes are not at all solid.
Jason - 15/Jan/01

If not for the fearsomely scarey top pitch it would be worth 2 stars, isnt it worth a decent peg runner?
Al Evans - 17/Jul/01

A great route - would be a wonderful first 4b lead for someone (brave!)
Andrew McLellan - 06/May/02

good route, top pitch a bit lose but, farily low in the grade
dave romsey - 13/Feb/03

This was my first 4b lead and I loved it, for some reason I didn't find the second pitch at all scary but rather the first pitch a tad dusty on some holds and hence a little scarier :)
lb - 15/Feb/05

First pitch sounded hollow most of the way up the layback crack/flake. not ideal for your confidence!
Wilbur - 16/Oct/06

Good first pitch on good rock with good protection. Lots of rope drag though even with double ropes! My first multi-pitch lead. Thought 4b was perfect.
Mike Eldred - 06/Apr/07

There has been a rockfall in the corner just below the faultline on pitch 1. It's now loose and dirty, but can be avoided by climbing the slab on the left and then stepping right across the top of the corner at VS 4c.
Bob M - 16/Apr/10

Managed to turn this into a 3 pitch climb (due to the fact that I thought that the belay was just below the peg before the traverse - doh !!!) Good route though, and spot on grade wise. The second pitch (proper) is a scramble after the first couple of airy moves off the belay. Some of it is a bit loose.
Mark Reed - 28/Jun/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 31
    hard VS 0 of 11
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    hard HS 2 of 11
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    hard 4a 1 of 10
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    2 Stars 1 of 10
    1 Star 9 of 10
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