Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 49
A popular route up a gear-packed corner 9m right of Ledgend that gives exhausting climbing. It has taken a lot of scalps over the years and now fully merits its HVS grade.
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One of my earliest VS climbs, attempted after a very late night out and a early start. A truley horrifying and exhausting experience. That's Swannage for ya.
Well all I can say is I must have been having an off-day. I thought it was about E1 5b!!!! A lot of other people must have by the gear stuck in the crack at the crux too!!!!!
I'm a Swanage regular with experience of many of the classic HVS's. This climb is woefully undergraded.More like strenuous HVS 5a.
Thought after leading this route "Am I really this crap?" having gibbered at the crux for about 1/2 an hour, boring my belayer senseless. I don't feel so bad now I've read some of the other comments from other climbers who have had their egos and hands/arms bruised on this climb. Lovely route, just undergraded.
I think VS is spot on. The gear is excellent: I fell off the crux so I can vouch for it! I don't think that any of the moves are as technically difficult as the VSs at Subluminal like Spreadeagle or Freda. All in all it's pretty comparable to the other VSs at Guillemot - Batt Crack, Tensor II etc
did u climb this before or after sunday? cos if after, i believe u may have acquired a shed load of gear from my mate's epic on the route...and some of my hexes too! can i have them back?!
I climb regular VS 4c routes at wintours leap and just starting onto HVS, found this route very hard and a bit of a suprise, thought i was having a bad day, the temp was 30+ so the rock was sweating which may have upped the grade. maybe under cooler conditions it is a VS.
I felt HVS 5a would be a more suitable, although low in the grade, with the one 5a move reaching up for the hold at the top of the groove. The holds are good, it just requires some commitment. Were forced to leave a No 9 rock in the crack yesterday as it has started raining, feel free to keep it if you can get it out!
A strong candidate for the most fallen off route at Guillemot if not Swanage! Tip: start the steep section, place some good gear, then reverse for a rest before giving it your all.
hvs 5a sounds about right for the first pitch
VS puts over the general character of the climb but 5a should be given with a comment about the short sharp crux (which can be very well protected thus reducing its seriousness).
Climbed this lovely route in the sun today. Nice bottom pitch. Very well protected throughout. If you have flexible hips you can bridge and find rests all the way up and through the crux. No shortage of gear.
First HVS lead. Great route, loads of bomber gear with just a couple of awkward moves before the jugs pre ledge (and you can bridge the start of the crux leaving only a single layback type move before the uber jugs. Did it on single rope and in one pitch. A really good route !