Lucy's Slab

1 Stars
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Undercoat < Overcoat  |  Stairway Crack > Jean's Route >>

The right-hand pillar and tricky scoop in the overhang.
FA. Al Parker 1978


The move through the scoop is tricky, but the rest of the route is very easy, and not very interesting, unfortunately. Don't feel it deserves a star. Possibly VS 5b.
Nick Smith - 08/Apr/02

I agree with Nick. Interesting that this route has been upgraded to E1 in the new Stanage Guide.
Al.Smith - 06/Jan/03

Yes, one rock-over does not an E1 make.
CH - 21/Mar/03

Did this today as my first "HVS", and am interested to see its now E1 in BMC - agree this seems a bit silly. A one move wonder, but brilliant move. A star at least just for that.
SidH - 13/Nov/04

Ludicrous at E1, more like VS. There is a great thread and cam just below "the move". I could not do "the move" though and hung around looking foolish for ten minutes before sneaking of right. My second cruised it, embarrassing.
bendoniumayebendonium - 31/Aug/05

as a matter of interest, Bendomium, are you tall or short? I led this route and thought the move reasonably low end 5a. I'm 5'6". My buddy, following, had a nightmare on that same move. He's 6'3".
EarlyBird - 15/Sep/05

I'm 6'. My second is 5'3". Thanks it makes me feel a bit better - but in reality my second is the superior climber. Never mind it'll be there next time I go.
bendoniumayebendonium - 30/Sep/05

Yes, a one move wonder so no stars, I found it quite a hard move (though I'm fairly short), but with a good cam just below it, HVS 5b seems about right
Iain Thow - 21/Mar/07

I am 5'6" and thought it was an easy 5a or possibly 4c move with bomber gear by your feet. It is definitely easier than "Squat" which gets VS 5a elsewhere on this crag.
Mutl3y - 06/Oct/07

Aye, gorgeous move although the in situ toprope after my partner led Overcoat meant I could happily crank the momentum up on it. Incidentally, I'm quite tall.
Dave Foster - 25/Aug/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 63
    hard E1 0 of 21
    E1 0 of 21
    easy E1 2 of 21
    hard HVS 0 of 21
    HVS 2 of 21
    easy HVS 13 of 21
    hard VS 4 of 21
    VS 0 of 21
    easy VS 0 of 21
    hard 5c 0 of 21
    5c 0 of 21
    easy 5c 1 of 21
    hard 5b 2 of 21
    5b 12 of 21
    easy 5b 5 of 21
    hard 5a 1 of 21
    5a 0 of 21
    easy 5a 0 of 21
    3 Stars 0 of 21
    2 Stars 1 of 21
    1 Star 12 of 21
    0 Stars 7 of 21
    Bag of ..... 1 of 21

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