Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 81
A popular route. Start just right of Ledgend Direct.
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A much better route than Legend Direct, a bit underated I think!
Seconded ... and better gear / belay than Ledgend Direct too
good crack climbing fun, bit wandering to start though.
Found the last moves up the crack of the first pitch rather more difficult than I thought. Great fun though
Going up the crack was great for hands, not alot for feet though. Traverse across to the ledge was a little scary.
Bit harder then I expected, but I would say this was a lovely route and thought it was better then Legend Direct. When you get to the top of the crack and traverse across, it is awsom.
Another little gem.
Last 5m of the 1st pitch was really tricky in my opinion. I lead the 2nd pitch and traversed left not right. Big mistake as the rock is loose in the extreme. BEWARE.
I climbed it for my third time last weekend. Maybe I'm getting old, maybe I was just a bit out of condition, anyway I peeled off on the last few metres, took a big swing, ripped my gear out and plunged about 30 feet. I was fine. But I would strongly recommend making sure you've got rock-solid gear in before the nasty little traverse
Really nice route, never any real peril (mild or otherwise) loads of gear and jams in the crack, and good small footholds on the right wall (for the traverse). Some of the flakes at the belay are not as solid as they first seem (but no major problems). Really good honest climbing, great route.
BIG WARNING! Great first pitch - until the 'good belay ledge'. I think a fair chunk had already fallen off (Dorset has been in the news for this over the last week) as I could only just stand on it near an old peg right of the O/H. I made a couple of steps further right to see if it got any better, and the whole thing collapsed beneath me! Think this might be a one pitch route now! We were rightly spooked and didn't go back up for the gear or to see what was left of the ledge.