Friends from the Deep

2 Stars
Pumpy
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Vampire Direct < Batt Crack  |  Yellow Belly Wall > Yellow Wall >>


An eliminate with an absorbing first pitch. Start just right of a chimney in an arete, 8m right of Ledgend Direct.
1) 5c, 25m. Gain a slot (thread) then pull out right to cross a bulge. Continue to a rest on Yellow Wall. Traverse left to a flake then follow the sustained crack (thread) to the fault-line. Belay on the left in the corner as for Batt Crack.
2) 4c, 15m. Move 2m right then finish rightwards through a V-shaped roof.
FA. Tim Dunsby, Nigel Coe 6.5.1987

USER COMMENTS

Oops! Last Sunday 23/4/05 I was attempting to climb FFTD. To cut a long story short.... it now has one less hold. Just after the slot it was possible to reach an undercut flake/hold. It has now gone. On my first attempt I had to weight a runner that was placed behind the flake. This popped and probably losened the hold. The next time I reached for it down it came. Needless to say that was enough excitement for one day. The route may well be slightly harder now!
Mike Smith - 29/Apr/05

Had a go at this yesterday and after a number of attempts failed to make it over the bulge directly after the slot. Unless I missed something itís now harder than 5c. Feel free to prove me wrong though!
felix - 10/Jul/06

Got back on this again yesterday, and Iíve changed my mind, it's not that hard you just need to find the right hold. And the upper crack section absolutely brilliant well worth its two stars.
felix - 29/Jan/08

I thought there were some bits of really good climbing on this but also a bit of a meander round Yellow Wall and a solid but uninspiring top pitch. Stonking gear where you need it but bomber wires in the crack rather than the thread mentioned in the description.
matt perks - 01/Mar/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 9
    hard E4 0 of 3
    E4 0 of 3
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    hard E3 2 of 3
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    hard 5c 0 of 3
    5c 3 of 3
    easy 5c 0 of 3
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