Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 41
Fine wall climbing on the initial pitch, rounded off by a challenging top pitch. Start just left of a big groove/corner.</br></br>1) 5b, 20m. Climb the wall, trending left to a down-pointing spike. Move left and up past a bulge (peg) into a shallow groove. Continue to a belay on the left at the fault-line.</br>2) 5b, 20m. Trend steeply rightwards under blocks, then over to a small ledge. Move on and rightwards, around an arete, into a corner with a large flake. Finish up this, exiting left.
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A great route, but the second pitch is a sandbag (I fell 30ft off it!)
Three stars E1 5b, 5b brilliant.
Yeah, echo Mikes comments about grades. Give it two stars for two really absorbing pitches. A big thankyou to the beneavolent soul who supplied the bomber new belay stake above the top pitch.
Classic E1 a nice wall to start then a cool traverse and some nice technical moves onto a slab. The Belay is indeed cramped but atmospheric, and the anchors seemed to block holds that would have been handy for leaving the tiny ledge, (crux) a scary but adequately protected traverse leads into nowhere but then jugs arrive and you can romp up enormous flakes to the top.
Some rockfall from lower pitch, so it looks like this needs to be regraded. Volunteers?
Climbed on 8 April 06. First pitch felt more like 5a then 5b. Second pitch was def harder than first. Rockfall may have been the wedged boulder, because there wasn't one! Belayed off the peg and a couple of nuts in the cramped space.
5a, 5b. P2 felt pretty high in grade with the difficulties beginning almost immediately above the belay.
The wedged block forms the stance for the belay, so that's still there I think. The hardest move is getting round the end of the blocks, early on the 2nd pitch, at tricky 5b. I thought the 1st pitch was easy 5b. Great route!
Thoroughly enjoyable with interesting features, especially the hands-free rest wedged behind a flake in the second pitch. Works well as one pitch, with drag only becoming serious for the last few metres. Not too sustained, never desperate, good gear.
good route, nice face climbing on pitch 1 at easy 5b but very run out without a cheeky side runner, then feels quite adventurous as you leave the virtually hanging stance with a not exactly bomber belay and wander round the blocks on pitch 2. i didn't see the belay stake at the top though.