Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 77
A fine but devious pitch - care with rope-work is required. Climb the chimney to an awkward traverse left under the roof. Gain the groove awkwardly and climb it to a step right. Pull over a bulge then trend left past the arete to the juggy north-facing wall.
bit over rated though traverse is nice
Tried to be careful with my rope work but still felt like I was dragging a 10 ton truck up on 2nd.
Found this very hard for the grade. Traverse is delicate, and the groove is scary and sketchy. Or perhaps I'm just a bit of a blouse?
Absoultely fantastic route! Definetly one for double ropes though! try and get a mate to run up the crag and take a photo of the finish from the left. Awsome!
My first 5b lead and i found it quite overbearing especially as my gear fell out goin up the side of the overhang just after the traverse. The finally moves are good adrenaline pumpers as well.
A good route; HVS 5b seems spot on. The traverse is ok once you commit and the move up into the groove requires a bit of thhought as well as good use of your feet. More awkward than hard. 2 stars as it's a bit too escapable higher up and seemed a bit scrappy after the groove.
A classic dilema ! do you stuff gear in the high slot in the groove or do you keep it free for your fingers ?
If your me you put some gear in and then remove it so you can make upward progress. The rope drag was a nightmare. The best bits of the route are in the lower half.
Sorry, that should read "you're" not "your".
Really enjoyed this route. Sounds like I had the same problem as GrahamD and Swig. Got a really nice Rock in the high slot then pulled it out and stuffed in a dodgy cam lower down so I could get up the groove. Brilliant!