The Blurter

3 Stars
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Meddle < Youth Meat  |  Overhanging Chimney > Wolf Solent >>

A fine but devious pitch - care with rope-work is required. Climb the chimney to an awkward traverse left under the roof. Gain the groove awkwardly and climb it to a step right. Pull over a bulge then trend left past the arete to the juggy north-facing wall.
FA. Al Parker 1959


bit over rated though traverse is nice
mark s davies - 18/May/03

Tried to be careful with my rope work but still felt like I was dragging a 10 ton truck up on 2nd.
vic - 08/Jul/03

Found this very hard for the grade. Traverse is delicate, and the groove is scary and sketchy. Or perhaps I'm just a bit of a blouse?
Stefan Kruger - 29/Apr/04

Absoultely fantastic route! Definetly one for double ropes though! try and get a mate to run up the crag and take a photo of the finish from the left. Awsome!
Neil Morbey - 25/May/04

My first 5b lead and i found it quite overbearing especially as my gear fell out goin up the side of the overhang just after the traverse. The finally moves are good adrenaline pumpers as well.
trumpy - 23/Jul/04

A good route; HVS 5b seems spot on. The traverse is ok once you commit and the move up into the groove requires a bit of thhought as well as good use of your feet. More awkward than hard. 2 stars as it's a bit too escapable higher up and seemed a bit scrappy after the groove.
Andy Hobson - 31/Oct/05

A classic dilema ! do you stuff gear in the high slot in the groove or do you keep it free for your fingers ?
GrahamD - 24/Apr/06

If your me you put some gear in and then remove it so you can make upward progress. The rope drag was a nightmare. The best bits of the route are in the lower half.
Swig - 15/Jul/06

Sorry, that should read "you're" not "your".
Swig - 15/Jul/06

Really enjoyed this route. Sounds like I had the same problem as GrahamD and Swig. Got a really nice Rock in the high slot then pulled it out and stuffed in a dodgy cam lower down so I could get up the groove. Brilliant!
Dave Foster - 25/Aug/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 77
    hard E1 0 of 26
    E1 0 of 26
    easy E1 0 of 26
    hard HVS 9 of 26
    HVS 17 of 26
    easy HVS 0 of 26
    hard VS 0 of 26
    VS 0 of 26
    easy VS 0 of 26
    hard 5c 0 of 26
    5c 0 of 26
    easy 5c 0 of 26
    hard 5b 9 of 26
    5b 12 of 26
    easy 5b 5 of 26
    hard 5a 0 of 26
    5a 0 of 26
    easy 5a 0 of 26
    3 Stars 12 of 25
    2 Stars 10 of 25
    1 Star 2 of 25
    0 Stars 1 of 25
    Bag of ..... 0 of 25

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