Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 17
Rounded and bold. Start on the right and teeter leftwards up the slab until just right of the chimney. Pull through the overlap, rightwards (good runners at last) then back left, with difficulty and a poor pocket. Continue delicately up the slab to a large ledge and easy finish. A Direct Start is a bolder 5c.
TR the direct start and it didn't feel 6a, more like 5c. No comment on anything else as I don't on-sight lead E4!
on sighted direct start and tend to agree its 5c as its loads easier than the crux.
The gear in the break over the roof is good but blind to place. There is also reasonable gear on the upper wall (small friend and RP's). The DS is just about worth 6a and is more logical than the traverse in from the right. Deserves more traffic as it is reasonably safe.
are you allowed gear in the chimney you 'almost' get to at this grade? looked at it in the rain and it sort of looked like a logical thing to do.
Was expecting this to be one of those 'stanage' E4s (like say the nearby slap and spittle) so it came as a wee bit of a shock when it wasn't!
like mr reeve, i wasn't sure about the gear over the roof. when placing it you're in a groundfall position on relatively poor holds. the traverse out along the groove is certainly not trivial either. overall i thought this was a very serious route that felt harder than the given grade: "mild terror" kind of covers my feelings.
Wolf Solent is much gnarlier than Slap n Spittle, and feels it