Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 62
The centre of the pocketed slab is especially taxing for the short; beware the final reachy moves. Gear is minimal!
I can't see the side runners being relevant and probably closer to e3 than e1.
got a 1/3 of the way up and things looked to get worse, maybe you could a get a tricam in one of the pockets, surely worth more than E1?
The climbing would be a star if it wasn't too easy to reach over to either crack when tempted to put in protection. I don't understand how it gets HVS 5C in the old Stanage guide? Certainly only worth one star and not one I would go back to repeat.
I did this again and a small alien makes this a reasonable proposition at E1.
skyhook makes it bombproof!!
Hmmm. A 25' solo where your target landing zone is 3' by 2'. Maybe a fluttery heart or a note about the side cracks for gear should be included. I couldn't find any placement in the pockets so used offset aliens in the shallow flared crack on the right.
yeah theres no protection, its definately E3. i headpoint soloed it!
I thought about it! Then bouldered on it and thought again. Climbed Rinty and eyeballed it but seemed gear free.
Have soloed this a few times and the top half is definately easier for the tall (steady 5b for me). When I first did it I placed a very poor friend, but reckon you're better off using the pocket as a hold. I have more problems with the lower half, particularly if I try and avoid the holds on the left. This route was originally given E2, then downgraded to HVS, but I'd stick with E1 5c
its down as the eaisest E2 in the graded list which it definatly isn't hard moves and absolutley no gearfelt much harder than impossible slab
I'm 5'8 and didn't find this reachy at all. I guess you could force a blinkered line right up the middle of the slab but what would be the point of that.