Produced by Fred Quimby

1 Stars
Technical
 6b+

Adjacent Routes
<< Bop Ceroc < Glue Crux Clan  |  Strange Devices > Don's Long Gone >>


An easier diagonal start to Glue Crux Clan and once again features a tough finish.
FA. Mike Robertson 29.6.1991

USER COMMENTS

Weird final if you go all the way to the right (to the bigger holes and a crack) after clipping the last bolt before the lower off. Is this the original top out, or did I cheat?
morten naess - 21/Mar/00

Probably...However it makes a better finish for this climb as the move to the belay is MUCH harder (about english 6a/b- hold loss?) than any other if climbed direct.
ben stokes - 06/Jun/00

The finish on this was always desperate. It wouldn't be out of place as the crux of a 6c!
steve taylor - 13/Dec/02

A route of two contrasting halves. Nice juggy moves all the way until it joins Glue Crux Clan... then a rest on the slab and a chance to look at what lies ahead - namely fantastic balancey technical climbing of increasing difficulty, with the crux right at the top. Tackled direct, as it should be, the finishing move is probably english 6a, and therefore the route is harder than 6b - although up until this final move, 6b is about right. Its all about standing up on tiptoe, pinching a tiny hold, and slipping two fingertips at full stretch into the tiny undercut flake above. Now do you dare step up?! Brilliant.
Ben Darvill - 12/Dec/05

lovely route, went very direct and much harder than (?any) other 6b, seemed harder than other 6c's in the quarry to me!
Andrew Phillips - 31/Aug/09

tough rough,traversing across to join the other route was hard. Dan Bell Aug 11
Daniel Bell - 06/Feb/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 7
    hard 6c 0 of 0
    6c 0 of 0
    easy 6c 0 of 0
    hard 6b+ 0 of 0
    6b+ 0 of 0
    easy 6b+ 0 of 0
    hard 6b 0 of 0
    6b 0 of 0
    easy 6b 0 of 0
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    2 Stars 1 of 7
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