Once in the Jungle

2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
Loose
 E6 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Sheffield Uber Alles < The Jesus Lizard  |  Nowhere to Run > The Fabulous Professor Panic >>


A mercilessly steep and committing climbing. Start from the right-hand end of the access ledge.
1) 6b, 25m. Climb a short groove (thread) and from jugs swing right (thread) to a chert nose. Move up through bulging rock above to reach a rising handrail, which leads to a niche. Make powerful moves out right to a rest on a white projection. Traverse leftwards (peg) and move up and left over a bulge to a foothold stance in an open groove.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb a slab diagonally right, and continue to where it disappears between massive roofs (peg). Keep low until a bold swing right around a rib leads to a right-facing corner. Trend right up the corner to a broken finish. Belay and pull-out on a rope (pre-place from the fence posts).
FA. Martin Crocker, Mike Robertson 31.8.1996

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