Nowhere to Run
| E6 6b|
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A fantastic voyage crossing the entire cove from right-to-left at roughly half height. Make sure you choose a long summer day since you will need plenty of time to complete the trip.
1) 6a, 27m. Traverse the break past a corner. Continue along a shelf in the fault-line until a drop down, and hand traverse, lead to a good stance on the lip of the cave. Peg and cam belay.
2) 6a, 15m. Traverse easily left until squeezed by steep rock, forcing a strenuous link (2 threads and a peg) to a superb stance on a perched slab in the centre of the cove. Peg, thread and nut belay.
3) 5c, 10m. Continue left with a tricky move to gain a slab. Follow this more easily to belay at its end. Nut and cam belay.
4) 6b, 28m. Climb down left to a thread jug then finger traverse left to a short groove. Ascend the groove and pass two 'leg-over' breaks leftwards, before making breath-taking moves left (peg) and over a bulge to gain an open groove. (Possible stance as on Once in the Jungle). Climb diagonally down for 5m then horizontally to a belay on a spectacular hanging arete. Thread and nut belay.
5) 5c, 20m. Follow the break leftwards past Jesus Lizard and the other routes, to a corner. Continue using a thin break to the arete and make a final haul up (thread) to a projecting belay on the edge of the cove. Scramble left into the quarry.
FA. Martin Crocker, Mike Robertson 25.8.1996