Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 56
12m. Follow the straight crack as it gradually widens. Difficulties escalate to a wide and awkward exit. Big gear is useful.
This route is very 'traditional'. By far the hardest Hard Severe I've ever climbed. Would definitely deserve VS if the protection wasn't as good. Not for people who can't jam or climb cracks.
It's severe in my guide! Severe is probably ok, maybe HS, never VS, jamming and wedging techniques obligatory
In my opinion, there is no way on this planet that this route should be graded Severe! It's significantly harder than that. My climbing is definitely a little rusty at the moment (This was my first day out on grit after been away for a 5 month snowboard season - was onsighting HVS 5b last November though), but not that rusty! I'll leave the debate open to other punters who climb it......
Ok, I seem to remember get left arm inside crack, left foot in, right foot and hands on holds on the outside and thrutch, not too bad.
Think it is on the hard side of HS, defintely a tussle at the top. Good fun though.
bog standard HS, good jams all the way up, take a big piece of gear for the top or alternatively you can place a small one deep in the crack.
Horribly thrutchy, but par for the course for a wide grit crack.
Would be much harder if you can't jam. Great stuff, probably top end HS.