Twisting CrackRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 76
Adjacent Routes
14m. A fine climb, steep and quite intimidating, but on good holds. Climb the deep groove to the left edge of the big overhang (thread). Step out left on to the exposed arete and make a hard pull to gain the excellent juggy cracks above. USER COMMENTS
not a 3 star route
nice route, not sure it's worth any stars tho' as at points you can not tell which holds are on this route and which are on the severe to the left Eric's Eliminate. In fact you nearly have to go out of your way on the crux to stay on this route. Personally I find this climb just as eliminate as Erics....
There was an old photgraph of a climber in tweeds, (maybe Puttrell?) climbing Twisting Crack in the old blue (first plastic) guide to Stanage, he was definitely climbing the start via the route now called Erics Eliminate, not in the chimney. Which is correct?
I for one would prefer it to be one route with optional starts and a finish up either/neither/both of the cracks above...
Birds nesting in this atm
Yes, Twisting Crack and Eric's Eliminate are substantially overlapping climbs. But Twisting Crack is more exciting - so do this one and don't bother with Eric's Eliminate, or at least not on the same day. Just a suggestion though, maybe someone could paint the holds at the crux alternately red and blue to avoid confusion?
a 5 star route
At Severe I agree that it's hard to avoid using Eric's Eliminate. I used one pocket on the left wall for my feet at the crux, and placed two bits of gear in the smaller crack (on Erics) as I didn't have any that would fit in the larger crack (of Twisting Crack).
Fantastic route, great jugs and nice position when you step out onto the arete. |