Gideon

1 Stars
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Parker's Eliminate < Fade Away  |  Basic Training > Gideonite >>


14m. Balance up the steep arete to reach a short ramp and climb this to a good but short-lived jamming crack.
FA. Paul Nunn 1960

USER COMMENTS

I think this route is better at HVS as it is in On Peak Rock. It is harder than Parker's Eliminate in my experience.
Toby - 13/Feb/02

I agree with paul nunn's discription to reach the short ramp but in my experiances and others the top crack is best done by jaming your right hand in the crack and lay away useing your left hand on the small legedes to the left.
laurie Carefoot - 27/Mar/02

The route is only VS, but towards the top end of the grade - like Rough Wall at Brimham. A good stepping stone to the world of HVS leading.
craig - 09/Jun/03

Harder than Parkers - if you manage to step into the world of HVS via this route then step straight up to E1!
roger whetton - 30/May/07

A nice route. A mixture of balancy moves low down and a strenuous move higher up. Spot on HVS 5a IMO.
GrahamD - 21/Apr/08

Definitely harder and bolder than Parker's. IMHO this is HVS 5a, Parker's is VS 5a.
Harry E - 02/Aug/08

Spot on VS 5a - a couple of tricky moves, but you almost always have gear above you
chris_moor - 24/Feb/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 94
    hard HVS 0 of 34
    HVS 0 of 34
    easy HVS 24 of 34
    hard VS 8 of 34
    VS 2 of 34
    easy VS 0 of 34
    hard HS 0 of 34
    HS 0 of 34
    easy HS 0 of 34
    hard 5b 0 of 32
    5b 0 of 32
    easy 5b 2 of 32
    hard 5a 2 of 32
    5a 27 of 32
    easy 5a 1 of 32
    hard 4c 0 of 32
    4c 0 of 32
    easy 4c 0 of 32
    3 Stars 1 of 28
    2 Stars 11 of 28
    1 Star 15 of 28
    0 Stars 1 of 28
    Bag of ..... 0 of 28

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