The Harp

 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Foghorn Groove < Wind Instrument  |  Pocket Wall > Tighe's Arete >>

14m. Climb the wall trending right to a dubious overlap (get the belays to stand to one side!), pull over this and finish easily.
FA. Al Parker 1957 FFA Al Parker 1960


Low in the grade. Balancy up the slab, but move round the wobbly overlap is easy. Have your belayer stand to the side just in case...
Toby - 13/Feb/02

fair description
laurie Carefoot - 27/Mar/02

I think this route is ok, i'd give it a star.
Al - 03/May/02

i agree it should have a star but it is over graded and easy, bit of a ladder and the bulge is easier than it looks. seen it desended easily by a 75 year old!
james turnbull - 29/Mar/04

Watched an old gent down climb this today,has he had this wired for about 60 yrs hahah.
Its quit steep but other than that the climbing is 4b top's with good gear before the bulge.
Agree with previous comments its Over graded... HS 4b but worth its star.
Shaun Walby - 22/Aug/04

Good route. Deserves the star. Shown as a "fluttery heart - big fall potential" in the guide - don't think so, easy to protect.
Nick - 22/Aug/05

Pretty amenable for the grade but the top overhang where everyone puts gear to protect the top moves is actually unattached to the crag. Hope the old gadjy didn't hook his zimmer frame behind it....
Pekkie - 19/Sep/05

The fact that it must weigh several tons and yet miracuously
tony - 11/Oct/05

my first lead great well protected climb
danlane - 12/Jan/07

i have lead the corner to the left then coming to join the harp just below the overlap. i have called it bird poo corner as there is often bird poo on the crutial hold. i graded the route at HS 4B.
dan lane - 19/Nov/07

Very pleasant but considerably easier than VS 4c: it's even soft for the HS4b it's given in the 1st edition of the Western Grit Rockfax.
Charles Moreton - 21/Feb/11

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Access Issues for Western Grit

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 104
    hard HVS 0 of 36
    HVS 0 of 36
    easy HVS 0 of 36
    hard VS 0 of 36
    VS 7 of 36
    easy VS 12 of 36
    hard HS 17 of 36
    HS 0 of 36
    easy HS 0 of 36
    hard 5a 0 of 35
    5a 0 of 35
    easy 5a 0 of 35
    hard 4c 0 of 35
    4c 0 of 35
    easy 4c 7 of 35
    hard 4b 28 of 35
    4b 0 of 35
    easy 4b 0 of 35
    3 Stars 2 of 33
    2 Stars 6 of 33
    1 Star 23 of 33
    0 Stars 2 of 33
    Bag of ..... 0 of 33

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.