Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 95
A fine climb with a worrying finale. Start up the short crack and make hard moves (especially for the short) to easier ground. Lace the break then teeter up the final slab by ever more committing moves. Side-runners lower the E-grade.
This climb is definately easier if you have a
A route of contrats, an awkward start (harder if you're short) followed by a delicate bold slab to finish.
Definately low in grade, with or without siderunner, top slab is easy and not in the slightest thin, nice route but very much low crux.
The lower section seemed quite dangerous without side-runners in the thin crack to the right. It also felt quite contrived. The top is certainly safer but it is 'in the slightest thin'.
Does what it says on the tin, actually rather good and the finish feels pretty out there (despite what E6 onsighters may say). Crux lower down has to be protected with a runner in the crack, otherwise very dangerous and E4. Higher up, the lack of side-runners makes perfect sense.
Doesn't feel at all elimintate when you're on it. A very good route. Done without any side-runners and felt like hard E3.
a little confused, i started up beautician and then on the top slab climbed a line between this and beautician. it felt very bold so def e3 or even e4 and probably 5c.
This route, if you start left of inaccessible crack, is 'Love of my knife'.It goes very direct and stays left of impossible slab.
If you can put a side runner in for the lower crux can you use the crack for either hand or toe? If so, the grade drops dramatically. Otherwise the move is definitely 6a for me (at 5'9")- but not dangerous - there's a foot level baby bouncer and a decent 2nd would stop you hitting the ground.