Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 75
A superb roof climb; high in the grade. Climb a shallow groove to below the roof. Place solid runners then head out via good flakes to the lip. Getting established round the lip is the crux. Linking this with the Right-hand is Quietus Middle Leg, E3 6a.
Well protected, but desperately hard work to unlock the sequence from the lip of the overhang. Full marks to anyone who onsights this classic (I didn't!)
Easier than i expected having put off trying it for far to long! Don't use the left crack though, just two simple hand jams on the right crack will take you to the top!
Oh, I didn't hand jam - I used the left crack and then put my foot up high and rolled over. I had been watching somebody on it and it seemed the best way. Certainly felt fine...
Never managed it clean without a rest, deffo 6a for me. Loads of 6a's I find easier than this. I wouldnt mind E1 6a though.