Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 75
14m. A superb roof climb; high in the grade. Climb the shallow groove direct to ledges below the roof. Place secure runners (so they won't get kicked out) then head out via good flakes to the lip. Getting established on the head-wall is the crux, the best combination of the trio of cracks takes a bit of working out.
Well protected, but desperately hard work to unlock the sequence from the lip of the overhang. Full marks to anyone who onsights this classic (I didn't!)
Easier than i expected having put off trying it for far to long! Don't use the left crack though, just two simple hand jams on the right crack will take you to the top!
Oh, I didn't hand jam - I used the left crack and then put my foot up high and rolled over. I had been watching somebody on it and it seemed the best way. Certainly felt fine...
Never managed it clean without a rest, deffo 6a for me. Loads of 6a's I find easier than this. I wouldnt mind E1 6a though.