Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 84
18m. A steep finger crack leads up leaning rock to join Pisa at its small ledge. A strenuous and sustained pitch though with good protection throughout.
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The upper crack is hard. I think it's worth 5C
The first crack is quite technical 5c? much harder than any of the embankment finger cracks. The top finger crack is hideous (off fingers! for skinny fingered folk like myself) my technique is lacking and i couldn't make any progress.
Any faffing/timewasting on the finger cracks is highly likely to result in either falling, or down-climbing to take up the position of gibbering wreck on one of the ledges.
Definitely value for money and much harder than it looks from the ground. Gear is great but at some points it's just too hard to stop and place it.
Nice route this, more taxing than I expected. High in the grade I would say. Demands good finger locking technique and commitment.
It would be churlish to argue with the calls of 5c, not least because it is tough for that grade.
Pretty tough at E1, especially for the skinny fingered folk. Way harder than any of the Millstone E1s. 2 grades harder than Pisa Super Direct.
Agreed - its a toughy, and the cracks are a lot rougher inside than your average Millstone route making gear that little bit more awkward to place.
In so much as you can step up, place bomber gear above your head, look for holds then step down to hands free rests (from both the steep sections), this didn't feel as desperate as I was expecting. Once you have worked out what to do, mind, its no stopping til the next ledge.