Pisa Super Direct Top 50

3 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Galileo < Pisa Direct  |  Stable Cracks > Plastic Saddle >>


20m. Super Direct and super route. Follow the crack just left of the arete (as for the previous climb) to 'the leaning tower' then climb the bulging crack (loose chockstones)and well positioned crest of the buttress. Low in the grade and one of the best routes on Bleaklow.
FA. John Gosling late 1960s

USER COMMENTS

I think the dates of the FA are out by about 5/6 years, remember doing all routes on that buttress long before the late 60s, all the pisa buttress routes are worth doing.
sutty - 07/Feb/02

Starting direct up the thin cracks in the slab below seems a more logical and technically more interesting start. Crux section strenous and sustained: don't know anyone who agrees with "Low in the grade". Classic route.
s. - 30/Jul/02

It is low in the grade,theres one hard pull to easy ground and that,s it.
Con Carey - 23/Sep/02

The route might be low in the grade due to its excellent protection, but the climbing is not straightforward. If you are not confident with fist or off-hand jamming then I would imagine that the crux could spit you off. The thin cracks in the slab below are a more logical start (Pisa Ultradirect?). Much harder than East Rib.
mb - 02/Jun/03

If you start up the thin cracks in the slab then it's definitely not low in the grade!
Meg - 10/Jul/03

I didn't find a fist or off width jam anywhere on the route. Widish bridging gains you height at the steep upper section...then reach into the wider crack for a chockstone...brilliant climbing throughout.
Colin - 10/Aug/03

AMAZING!! **** a technical boulder problem leads to a perfect hand crack a couple of stiff pulls and some easier ground at the top. The best route i've done on Grit!
Jon Greengrass - 10/Jun/04

Easy for the grade. It's possible to do it entirely without jamming, but some light jamming (if that floats yer boat) adds to the excitement.
Very good route as well
Alex Purser - 10/Aug/04

Thought it was technically quite hard starting up the thin crack to the right of the arete, and then pumpy / sustained after that. Thought the move over the bulge was technically easier - just a confidence tester really (I had to rest once before this due to sustained nature of the route). A funny one to grade really, but would agree with the grade (5b if doing the right hand start).
Nick C. W. - 13/Jun/05

We did the "thin cracks in the slab start" which others have described above. More logical start but not 5a. Rest is pretty steady. Beautiful route.
Paul Evans - 03/Jul/06

Wonderful climbing. I can't jam but still got a couple of fists in there, so probably proved to myself that I can jam after all!
rich macey - 03/Jul/06

An immediately enticing line that offers good quality jamming with an energetic crux bulge.
Fiend - 06/Aug/06

The 'direct start' is by far the most logical line but quite reachy(and polished)
GrahamD - 26/May/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 146
    hard E1 0 of 49
    E1 0 of 49
    easy E1 1 of 49
    hard HVS 6 of 49
    HVS 34 of 49
    easy HVS 8 of 49
    hard VS 0 of 49
    VS 0 of 49
    easy VS 0 of 49
    hard 5b 0 of 49
    5b 0 of 49
    easy 5b 2 of 49
    hard 5a 17 of 49
    5a 28 of 49
    easy 5a 2 of 49
    hard 4c 0 of 49
    4c 0 of 49
    easy 4c 0 of 49
    3 Stars 37 of 48
    2 Stars 11 of 48
    1 Star 0 of 48
    0 Stars 0 of 48
    Bag of ..... 0 of 48

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