The Big Wall

3 Stars
 E3 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Unicorn Cracks < Trungel Crack  |  Holm Moss > Gremlin Groove >>

20m. A classic with hard climbing, good runners and some lo-o-ong reaches. Climb a crack to a flat roof then stretch left to a thin crack and climb this to a ledge on the arete. Make difficult moves into a cave (often shitty) and harder moves out of it. The short may have to avoid the final section on the left.
FA. Mike Simpkins 1960s FFA. John Allen 1975


A couple of micros are handy, but I can't remember where
Goi Ashmore - 15/Mar/02

One big piece is useful to stick in the crack above the cave before committing to the crux moves up the wall to the right. Friend 4 or something a bit bigger will do.
Chris Shorter - 15/May/02

Reachy and a bit contrived at the top, number 4 friend essential, garden strimmer optional. Worthwhile nonetheless.
Tom Briggs - 21/Jun/02

Friend 4 my arse! I dragged the bloody thing all the way up the route ( and very good it was too ) to find 1. the top can be protected using almost any sized friend.
2. the top wall is a piece of piss anyway.
stuart - 04/Sep/03

The friend 4 placement is off route to the left in a grassy niche - it needs extending quite a bit. Cant see how anything smaller would fit unless you bury it deep in the crack. If you are feeling brave and ethical you can leave the friend 4 behind - there are reasonable small wire placements in a little horizontal crack at the foot of the crux wall. As for me I felt happier with the friend 4 in as I didnt think the top wall was a piece of piss (Maybe if your very tall it is!).
Steve Burns - 06/Sep/04

Thought this was an excellent route, with really nice moves. Forgot to take the No4 friend but couldn't find the placement anyway, settled for the small horizontal wires, which I though were OK. I think there is some confusion as to which cave is referred to in the description. The lower of the two recesses (least cave like in my opinion) is I think the one mentioned in the description as the cave near the top will take all manor of gear and the route turns out to over anyway.
karl walton - 23/Jul/05

Did the route last wekend and most of the route, especially the top was very dirty. Agree with the previous comment about recesses. I can only descibe the first as a ledge or niche and two of the crux reaches are gaining this and leaving it.
DaveL - 15/Jun/06

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Access Issues for Western Grit

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 17
    hard E4 0 of 6
    E4 0 of 6
    easy E4 0 of 6
    hard E3 3 of 6
    E3 3 of 6
    easy E3 0 of 6
    hard E2 0 of 6
    E2 0 of 6
    easy E2 0 of 6
    hard 6b 0 of 6
    6b 0 of 6
    easy 6b 0 of 6
    hard 6a 1 of 6
    6a 1 of 6
    easy 6a 4 of 6
    hard 5c 0 of 6
    5c 0 of 6
    easy 5c 0 of 6
    3 Stars 1 of 5
    2 Stars 4 of 5
    1 Star 0 of 5
    0 Stars 0 of 5
    Bag of ..... 0 of 5

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.