The Big Wall

3 Stars
 E3 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Unicorn Cracks < Trungel Crack  |  Holm Moss > Gremlin Groove >>


20m. A classic with hard climbing, good runners and some lo-o-ong reaches. Climb a crack to a flat roof then stretch left to a thin crack and climb this to a ledge on the arete. Make difficult moves into a cave (often shitty) and harder moves out of it. The short may have to avoid the final section on the left.
FA. Mike Simpkins 1960s FFA. John Allen 1975

USER COMMENTS

A couple of micros are handy, but I can't remember where
Goi Ashmore - 15/Mar/02

One big piece is useful to stick in the crack above the cave before committing to the crux moves up the wall to the right. Friend 4 or something a bit bigger will do.
Chris Shorter - 15/May/02

Reachy and a bit contrived at the top, number 4 friend essential, garden strimmer optional. Worthwhile nonetheless.
Tom Briggs - 21/Jun/02

Friend 4 my arse! I dragged the bloody thing all the way up the route ( and very good it was too ) to find 1. the top can be protected using almost any sized friend.
2. the top wall is a piece of piss anyway.
stuart - 04/Sep/03

The friend 4 placement is off route to the left in a grassy niche - it needs extending quite a bit. Cant see how anything smaller would fit unless you bury it deep in the crack. If you are feeling brave and ethical you can leave the friend 4 behind - there are reasonable small wire placements in a little horizontal crack at the foot of the crux wall. As for me I felt happier with the friend 4 in as I didnt think the top wall was a piece of piss (Maybe if your very tall it is!).
Steve Burns - 06/Sep/04

Thought this was an excellent route, with really nice moves. Forgot to take the No4 friend but couldn't find the placement anyway, settled for the small horizontal wires, which I though were OK. I think there is some confusion as to which cave is referred to in the description. The lower of the two recesses (least cave like in my opinion) is I think the one mentioned in the description as the cave near the top will take all manor of gear and the route turns out to over anyway.
karl walton - 23/Jul/05

Did the route last wekend and most of the route, especially the top was very dirty. Agree with the previous comment about recesses. I can only descibe the first as a ledge or niche and two of the crux reaches are gaining this and leaving it.
DaveL - 15/Jun/06

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  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 17
    hard E4 0 of 6
    E4 0 of 6
    easy E4 0 of 6
    hard E3 3 of 6
    E3 3 of 6
    easy E3 0 of 6
    hard E2 0 of 6
    E2 0 of 6
    easy E2 0 of 6
    hard 6b 0 of 6
    6b 0 of 6
    easy 6b 0 of 6
    hard 6a 1 of 6
    6a 1 of 6
    easy 6a 4 of 6
    hard 5c 0 of 6
    5c 0 of 6
    easy 5c 0 of 6
    3 Stars 1 of 5
    2 Stars 4 of 5
    1 Star 0 of 5
    0 Stars 0 of 5
    Bag of ..... 0 of 5

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