Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 17
20m. A classic with hard climbing, good runners and some lo-o-ong reaches. Climb a crack to a flat roof then stretch left to a thin crack and climb this to a ledge on the arete. Make difficult moves into a cave (often shitty) and harder moves out of it. The short may have to avoid the final section on the left.
A couple of micros are handy, but I can't remember where
One big piece is useful to stick in the crack above the cave before committing to the crux moves up the wall to the right. Friend 4 or something a bit bigger will do.
Reachy and a bit contrived at the top, number 4 friend essential, garden strimmer optional. Worthwhile nonetheless.
Friend 4 my arse! I dragged the bloody thing all the way up the route ( and very good it was too ) to find 1. the top can be protected using almost any sized friend.
The friend 4 placement is off route to the left in a grassy niche - it needs extending quite a bit. Cant see how anything smaller would fit unless you bury it deep in the crack. If you are feeling brave and ethical you can leave the friend 4 behind - there are reasonable small wire placements in a little horizontal crack at the foot of the crux wall. As for me I felt happier with the friend 4 in as I didnt think the top wall was a piece of piss (Maybe if your very tall it is!).
Thought this was an excellent route, with really nice moves. Forgot to take the No4 friend but couldn't find the placement anyway, settled for the small horizontal wires, which I though were OK. I think there is some confusion as to which cave is referred to in the description. The lower of the two recesses (least cave like in my opinion) is I think the one mentioned in the description as the cave near the top will take all manor of gear and the route turns out to over anyway.
Did the route last wekend and most of the route, especially the top was very dirty. Agree with the previous comment about recesses. I can only descibe the first as a ledge or niche and two of the crux reaches are gaining this and leaving it.