High Neb Buttress Variations

2 Stars
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Where did my Tan Go? < High Neb Buttress  |  High Neb Edge > The Crypt Trip >>

20m. Variations on a theme. Climb the thin crack (crux - hard) to the break. Continue in the same line to the crux of the original, then traverse left to good runners (small Friends). Mantelshelf to better holds and continue up the left-hand side of the face.


Is the thin crack at the start really only 5a ?? I lost plenty of skin trying (and falling off) before finally giving up! The standard High Neb start on the left is *far* easier IMO...
Nick Smith - 08/Apr/02

I think this is given 5b in the definitive (for the starting crack I beleive)
Woker - 13/Apr/04

At least 5b at the start and hard at that!
The starting sequence of High Neb Edge seemed to be of a similar difficulty and that's given 5c. Both are pleasingly technical though :o)
kristian birchall - 28/Jul/06

The starting crack just needs a bit of oomph, more 4c than 5c, & the top is about the same grade as the normal route. Going right at the top & following the edge is a lovely (but scary) 5a finish.
Iain Thow - 04/Apr/07

Hidden holds on an ear shaped flake around the arete make it about 5a use this and the crack in tandem.
Michael - 14/Sep/07

I found the 'hidden holds' but they didn't help me much - definitely more than 5a (in my humble opinion)
Stewart Walker - 24/Apr/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 48
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