Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 48
Climb the tough thin crack then continue in the same line to the crux of the original. Move left (good small cams) then mantel to better holds and continue up the left-hand side of the face.
Is the thin crack at the start really only 5a ?? I lost plenty of skin trying (and falling off) before finally giving up! The standard High Neb start on the left is *far* easier IMO...
I think this is given 5b in the definitive (for the starting crack I beleive)
At least 5b at the start and hard at that!
The starting crack just needs a bit of oomph, more 4c than 5c, & the top is about the same grade as the normal route. Going right at the top & following the edge is a lovely (but scary) 5a finish.
Hidden holds on an ear shaped flake around the arete make it about 5a use this and the crack in tandem.
I found the 'hidden holds' but they didn't help me much - definitely more than 5a (in my humble opinion)