High Neb Buttress VariationsRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 48
Adjacent Routes 20m. Variations on a theme. Climb the thin crack (crux - hard) to the break. Continue in the same line to the crux of the original, then traverse left to good runners (small Friends). Mantelshelf to better holds and continue up the left-hand side of the face. USER COMMENTS
Is the thin crack at the start really only 5a ?? I lost plenty of skin trying (and falling off) before finally giving up! The standard High Neb start on the left is *far* easier IMO...
I think this is given 5b in the definitive (for the starting crack I beleive)
At least 5b at the start and hard at that!
The starting crack just needs a bit of oomph, more 4c than 5c, & the top is about the same grade as the normal route. Going right at the top & following the edge is a lovely (but scary) 5a finish.
Hidden holds on an ear shaped flake around the arete make it about 5a use this and the crack in tandem.
I found the 'hidden holds' but they didn't help me much - definitely more than 5a (in my humble opinion) |