Old Friends Top 50

3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
 E4 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< High Neb Edge < The Crypt Trip  |  The Dalesman > Mantelshelf Climb >>


18m. One of Stanage's classic E4s gives a bold outing. From the bottom right-hand corner of the face, climb a tiny groove to a poor rest (poor RPs). Swing left and pull up with difficulty (a small Friend in the base of the flake is hard to place) then make the crucial layback/stretch to reach the deep horizontal break. Move right and use the good pocket to gain the easier final wall.
FA. John Allen 1973

USER COMMENTS

never seen 6a in its life. Is a solid 5c move with slightly tricky gear, but never 6a
felly - 30/Jun/05

I seem to remember getting a couple of good small rocks, rather than a small friend, in the bottom of the flake when I did it, although it's a fair few years ago now!
Ian Milward - 03/Oct/06

How on earth is the starting section not 6a? It's certainly harder than plenty of other grit 6a moves (unless you're off using the crack on the right or something?).
Alex Barrows - 31/Oct/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 61
    hard E5 0 of 21
    E5 0 of 21
    easy E5 1 of 21
    hard E4 5 of 21
    E4 14 of 21
    easy E4 1 of 21
    hard E3 0 of 21
    E3 0 of 21
    easy E3 0 of 21
    hard 6a 0 of 21
    6a 0 of 21
    easy 6a 9 of 21
    hard 5c 7 of 21
    5c 5 of 21
    easy 5c 0 of 21
    hard 5b 0 of 21
    5b 0 of 21
    easy 5b 0 of 21
    3 Stars 19 of 19
    2 Stars 0 of 19
    1 Star 0 of 19
    0 Stars 0 of 19
    Bag of ..... 0 of 19

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