Cave Buttress

2 Stars
 S 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Little Slab < Typical Grit  |  High and Wild > Jeepers Creepers >>

Start just to the left of the cave and climb, passing perched flakes with care, to below the overhang. Move right past the arete and finish up the juggy face a little further to the right.
FA. Fred Pigott and friends, early 1920s


Pleasant romp up the initial slab, followed by slight exposed feeling traverse on good ledge rightwards. Good holds below top but top itself is very rounded.
Mike - 11/Aug/03

I agree, quite a scary traverse and finish.
Nigel - 13/Oct/03

I agree with Mike. The crux is definitely the traverse bit, and felt a tad precarious and balancy. I know someone will probably contradict me (from previous experience on Rockfax) when I say that it's probably not a good route to break into the grade on, but seasoned Severe Leaders will definitely enjoy it.
James McN - 13/Jun/04

The technical crux is getting off the ground. But yes, the traverse is quite exposed.
SidH - 13/Nov/04

Technical crux at the start. Pyschological crux making the move around the corner. Once traversing didn't want to waste time putting in gear - move right and to the top.
Matt - 25/Apr/05

Feels more exposed then I expected particularly on the traverse, but a good sustained climb.
chris colebrooke - 02/May/06

Good range of styles on this one, felt very exposed on the traverse and up the final wall.
Chris Owen - 13/May/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

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