Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 70
Follow Cave Buttress to the roof then attack the short-lived hanging jamming crack. A lot harder for wall-bred climbers!
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Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick so why can't those of us who like this type of thing have it at HVS? A gem. Harder than roof route.
Good fun thrutch at the end. Well protected and HVS 5b in my book.
should be called jeepers crapers as a sign of the quality of the climbing
So where exactly does the line go at the top? From a couple of good hand jams in the roof crack, I couldn't find any way of going direct up the continuation of the crack, so ended up out right on good holds in the horizontal breaks.
Solid jams, bomber gear, thrutchy and power draining. Probably E1. Easier than Roof Route (Rivelin), sorry Paz.
Left hand in the good jam above the lip , right To Nick - foot in pocket out right, left leg on nothing, right hand up and hold sloper in the break - then hold breath take out hand jam and get it in higher (bomber)Knee hooks over the big sloper on the nose and it all over - I guess you just went off route old boy :o)
Couldn't get any good jams above the lip, felt really awkward. Made desperate use of small edges and slopey bits to the left of the crack, got knee hook on nose and then more desperate lunging and pinching of holds until I flopped over the top.
Where exactly does the line go? Up the crack! (sorry Nick someone had to say it). Bunched up high rock over on to a smear for me enabled further progress up the crack. Where as Roof Route has a foot hold. Hint for both is to initially torque your trailing foot crack and shove upwards off of it.
"Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick" ive never done up side down jamming before and i found it quite nice as my first E1 just tiring!!
Arrggghhhh this is a HVS 5b, one of the many ridiculously hard gritstone HVS 5b routes. All the ones I can think of (Roof Route, The Vice, etc.) are safe and possible for an HVS leader, providing they're willing to part with the blood, sweat and tears.
the moves over the roof are hard if you stay exclusively in the crack, its all over too soon tho, because of the bomber gear and the piss lower section can i suggest a grade of v. diff. 5b?
Led up the first section of this to retrieve some of partners gear which he left after trying this route. This section is no more than Vdiff, if that. Not climbing at E1 grade yet so I traversed around the right hand arete and up to finish. This felt pretty exposed, and while there is plenty of gear underneath the overhang, there is little around the corner except the prospect of a large swinging fall, till you find the bomber cam placement. Fun Though! I reckon this variation is S - HS 4a and gets a star from me!
It's HVS! Just old-fashioned, thats all - battle til the end, using secret weapons of thrutch and udge, and you'll go directly over the top. no elegance, and any passing font climber will be yelling "Pas le genou!" as soon as he sees you, but hey...you're up.
Done this now three times, and I believe there are two finishes at two different grades:
Reminded me a bit of Hardings Super Direct Finish, without the quality lead up. Safe as houses,short lived, strenuous, 5b.
I've found a third finish - no jamming! Reach around the right for a large flat hold, then go for the nose with your left, then cut loose and climb the crack left leg high and thrutch around the roof. Not the intended line maybe, but still a tough HVS Fight B. Maybe this is Pythonists option 1, but I def didnt jam at all.