Nightmare Slab

1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< None < Eden Arete  |  Dream Boat > Daydreamer >>


8m. The left edge of the slab has a bold high step to reach a good break and gear. Pass the bulge above by a long reach then finish direct, or stride out right - slightly easier.
FA. Al Parker 1959

USER COMMENTS

Definatley feels exposed on the crux, a fall would see you tumbling down the hillside. The top is fine.
John Camateras - 06/Apr/04

Nice moves, gear is bomber.
Iggy_B - 21/May/05

The 1989 Stanage guide shows the line finsishing up the arete (which is better), not out right.
Really nice route, but probably nearer E2 5c than E1 5b.
Jus - 06/Oct/05

Lovely, Kayakky in grade and height arguments, mats won't help you here though. I placed a blind cam and, fortunately as it turned out, didn't need it.
DuzWalker - 21/Jun/07

Felt darn hard for E1. Did it as a warm up, but on the plus side, nothing seemed particularly scary later on that day.
Owen WG - 22/Oct/07

Harder than Daydreamer, due to the landing (or lack thereof). At E1 5c (as in other guides, anyone who thinks this is 5b is plainly wrong) it would be consistent with routes like Ice Boat and Phlegethoa which have a boulder problem start above an appalling, ankle snapping landing. All massive sandbags.
Jon Stewart - 10/Sep/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 34
    hard E2 0 of 13
    E2 0 of 13
    easy E2 7 of 13
    hard E1 2 of 13
    E1 4 of 13
    easy E1 0 of 13
    hard HVS 0 of 13
    HVS 0 of 13
    easy HVS 0 of 13
    hard 5c 0 of 11
    5c 0 of 11
    easy 5c 9 of 11
    hard 5b 1 of 11
    5b 1 of 11
    easy 5b 0 of 11
    hard 5a 0 of 11
    5a 0 of 11
    easy 5a 0 of 11
    3 Stars 0 of 10
    2 Stars 9 of 10
    1 Star 1 of 10
    0 Stars 0 of 10
    Bag of ..... 0 of 10

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