Nightmare Slab

2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
 V3 6A+

Adjacent Routes
<< None < Eden Arete  |  Dream Boat > Daydreamer >>


The left edge of the slab has a bold high step to reach a good break and gear. Pass the bulge by a long reach then finish direct, or stride out right - slightly easier.
FA. Al Parker 1959

USER COMMENTS

Definatley feels exposed on the crux, a fall would see you tumbling down the hillside. The top is fine.
John Camateras - 06/Apr/04

Nice moves, gear is bomber.
Iggy_B - 21/May/05

The 1989 Stanage guide shows the line finsishing up the arete (which is better), not out right.
Really nice route, but probably nearer E2 5c than E1 5b.
Jus - 06/Oct/05

Lovely, Kayakky in grade and height arguments, mats won't help you here though. I placed a blind cam and, fortunately as it turned out, didn't need it.
DuzWalker - 21/Jun/07

Felt darn hard for E1. Did it as a warm up, but on the plus side, nothing seemed particularly scary later on that day.
Owen WG - 22/Oct/07

Harder than Daydreamer, due to the landing (or lack thereof). At E1 5c (as in other guides, anyone who thinks this is 5b is plainly wrong) it would be consistent with routes like Ice Boat and Phlegethoa which have a boulder problem start above an appalling, ankle snapping landing. All massive sandbags.
Jon Stewart - 10/Sep/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 34
    hard V4 6B 0 of 13
    V4 6B 0 of 13
    easy V4 6B 0 of 13
    hard V3 6A+ 0 of 13
    V3 6A+ 0 of 13
    easy V3 6A+ 0 of 13
    hard V3 6A 0 of 13
    V3 6A 0 of 13
    easy V3 6A 0 of 13
    hard V2 5c 0 of 13
    V2 5c 0 of 13
    easy V2 5c 0 of 13
    hard V1 5b 0 of 13
    V1 5b 0 of 13
    easy V1 5b 0 of 13
    hard V0+ 5a 0 of 13
    V0+ 5a 0 of 13
    easy V0+ 5a 0 of 13
    hard V0 4c 0 of 13
    V0 4c 0 of 13
    easy V0 4c 0 of 13
    hard V0- 4b 0 of 13
    V0- 4b 0 of 13
    easy V0- 4b 0 of 13
    hard VB 4a 0 of 13
    VB 4a 0 of 13
    easy VB 4a 0 of 13
    hard ?? 0 of 13
    ?? 0 of 13
    easy ?? 7 of 13
    hard ?? 2 of 13
    ?? 4 of 13
    easy ?? 0 of 13
    3 Stars 0 of 10
    2 Stars 9 of 10
    1 Star 1 of 10
    0 Stars 0 of 10
    Bag of ..... 0 of 10

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