Pilier des Cathares

3 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
 6a+

Adjacent Routes
<< Rioby < Rio  |  Mandarine mécanique > La zipette >>


The original line here was put up in 1984 and then re-equipped in 1995. The harder sections are well protected, but bolting is spaced out on the easier parts, including a grade 3 pitch (P6 ), which has just a belay point at the top. The route is often done with a quick pull on a couple of bolts on the polished crux on pitch 5, reducing the over-all grade to a sustained 5+.
1) 5. Easy-angled slabs setting off from the memorial plaque.
2) 5. A short pitch heading to the right with a sneaky foot-traverse to reach the stance.
3) 5+. Another short one though pretty tough for the grade.
4) 5. A fine and varied pitch that finishes at the higher of the two belay points.
5) 5. Some fine slab-climbing.
6) 6a+. The roof at the start of the pitch is the crux of the route, which is somewhat polished and can be tackled free at 6a+, or with two points of aid at a more amenable 5+/A0.
7) An easy scramble, but it has some dubious rock and no fixed gear except the belay point at the top. Walk 20m to find the start of the final pitch.
8) 5+. Loop through the roof from left to right the finish easily taking care with some loose rock.

USER COMMENTS

there seems to be an extra pitch in the RF guide, compared with the local topo. The topo has the crux on pitch 5, RF has an extra pitch 5, and the crux on pitch 6.
bergfuhrer - 24/Aug/14

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