Le pilier sud

3 Stars
 6a

Adjacent Routes
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A popular classic with a lot of climbing and quite a bit of ledge rambling too. The route is equipped except for the exposed final ridge which may require a few slings and nuts to protect. Ascent time is 8-10 hours for a reasonably efficient team so start early! Conveniently, the first pitch is the crux - although you do still have to do the rest of the route to get the tick! The climbing is split by a series of large grassy terraces, and retreat is possible from as far as up at the 18th pitch, though this isn't recommended. Start at a short buttress leading to a groove.
1) 6a, 2) 5+, 3) 5+. The First Terrace leads to:
4) 5+, 5) 5, 6) 5, 7) 5. The Second Terrace leads to:
8) 5+, 9) 5, 10) 5+. A 150m scramble up The Epaulette.
11) 5+, 12) 5+, 13) 5+, 14) 3, 15) 3. Which leads to The Epaule. 100m of scrambling leads to: 16) 3, 17) 3, 18) 5, 19) 4+. Move left for 20m to 20) 5+. A steep wall to the top of La Main Traverse the top of La Main, make a 20m abseil and continue over easy ground towards the headwall and its huge yellow groove. 21) 4+, 22) 3+, 23) 3+, 24) 4.
Continue up the ridge - 200m with moves of 3 and 4 - to the summit.

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  • Route Grade Votings

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