Count's Buttress

3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
 E1 5c

Adjacent Routes
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16m. A great route with a devious but logical line - like a tough Kelly's Overhang, though this one is harder for the short! Climb the blunt arete on side-pulls to a small ledge below the steep slab. Make an awkward traverse out right to the arete then reach the horizontal break above with difficulty before traversing back left to the short finishing crack. The finishing crack can be reached more directly from the start at E3 6a. Photo page 121.
FA. Joe Brown early 1950s

USER COMMENTS

This route is bloody hard if you are short..the traverse at the start and also the step up the arete.
Marc - 03/Apr/02

I am sure its more like E2 for the short eg Joe Brown.
Chris
Chris Craggs - 02/Oct/02

A fine route with several challenging sections, however the right hand arete looks like its the crux but for those 5'10'' and about its not a move at all. First traverse is the technical crux and similar to Kellys Overhang...hard.
Si Shaw - 20/Oct/03

Desperate! Hardest E1 in the Peak?!
Smelly Fox - 04/Feb/05

Correct sequence crucial for the first traverse. Took 3 goes to find it :(. Top traverse no pushover. Dunno 'bout "hardest E1 in the peak", but I've certainly done easier E2's!
Paul Evans - 15/May/05

Is the FA date correct as the route is listed in Eric Byne's 1951 'Climbs on Gritstone 2, The Sheffild Area' guide?
Mark Stevenson - 22/Apr/06

How are you supposed to do that initial traverse? I'm pretty sure it wasn't the way that I did it!
MeMeMe - 24/Apr/06

Felt like E1 to me, good rests and gear. I'm 5'11 so can just about reach the break on the arete, if you are much shorter then it would be a percarious step onto the smeary foothold and then might be more like E2. Quality route
mark20 - 19/Nov/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 28
    hard E2 0 of 12
    E2 0 of 12
    easy E2 0 of 12
    hard E1 11 of 12
    E1 1 of 12
    easy E1 0 of 12
    hard HVS 0 of 12
    HVS 0 of 12
    easy HVS 0 of 12
    hard 6a 0 of 3
    6a 0 of 3
    easy 6a 0 of 3
    hard 5c 0 of 3
    5c 2 of 3
    easy 5c 1 of 3
    hard 5b 0 of 3
    5b 0 of 3
    easy 5b 0 of 3
    3 Stars 10 of 13
    2 Stars 3 of 13
    1 Star 0 of 13
    0 Stars 0 of 13
    Bag of ..... 0 of 13

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