<< Lisa < Es acabats | L'Intégrale d'Anaïs > Le plaisir du geste >>
The most popular of the routes on the high cliffs, with lots of good climbing on great rock. Queues are not unheard of in the spring season, though they are fairly unusual. With a few pulls on gear the grade is 5+. The climb follows the continuous cracks up the right-hand side of the buttress and is fully equipped.
1) 5, 30m. Start at the name, up an open groove with bolts.
2) 5+, 45m. Fantastic steep laybacking to begin with but turning a bit scrappy towards the finish.
3) 6a, 42m. A big lead - sustained, varied and on good rock.
4) 5, 30m. 15m of climbing leads to easy scrambling. Slings for the trees encountered might be found useful.
5) 6a, 30m. Sustained thin crack-climbing that manages to look easier than it actually is.
6) 5+, 42m. A pleasant open groove has a semi-Alpine feel.
7) 5+, 48m. The final pitch has a hard and painful finger-crack to start and then things ease.
Descend by abseil, back down the route, or more usually and better, down Lisa.
Taking a few nuts wouls be a good idea. The crux move on P5 is above an ankle-breaking ledge with the bolt below you. Bolts are a bit spaced in other places where the climbing is easier but the rock is sometimes a bit dodgy. Overall good, but a little bit disappointing. Pirch grades seem OK, for once.
Rob Davies - 17/Jun/13
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