Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 22
Climb up the awkward bottom wall to the break, then pull over a bulge and continue up a large chalked-up flake. (Stick clip the second staple for the 7b+ tick if the bottom is wet). Move up to undercuts and rightwards to climb a short fingery section. Then head back left and up to the break. Continue up the pumpy groove above to a high lower-off (28m). When very dry you can do the start to Barely Decent and move right at 7b+ for the full route from the ground. If you climb to the top of the crag from here then you've done The Full Monty, 7c+. Originally the route used the stance on The Prow and then swung round the hanging arete to the right (E5 6a) to access the top of the crag - this was the pitch that gave the route its name.
Only easy 7b to the break, and E6 to the proper belay
7b+ to the main belay. You don't place any extra gear and, although the fixed stuff is poor there is enough of it; no trad route thus far. Pitch 2 is different. Not sure about to the first break. I would still say baby 7b+. Feels a lot easier if you have done it loads of times but the crux sequence is difficult to read.
Half Indecent is no where near 7b+... bottom end 7b
No way is it 7b to the break, that's just daft! Easy 7b to the break, scary above.
with the new bolts it now seems friendly going to the bodymachine belay -well worth doing.
All hunky dory with new gear. 3 stars and 7b+. An excellent route.
Very soft 7b+ IMHO, possibly just hard 7b, as once you've got to the break the top section doesn't add any real difficulty.
New combo courtesy of Zippy from the ground using the Body Machine direct start but using the BM rockover handhold with your right hand to step down and across into the crux of Indecent which is followed to a new higher belay at c.27m with a couple of extra tricky moves. Known as 'Half Decent' 7c. Loads of crimps, very satisfying.