Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 3
One of the historic landmark routes of the Peak. The way to climb it these days is in one giant pitch from the ground for an amazing 8a tick, although it is still a good 7c+ tick done in one pitch to the belay of Body Machine. Climb up the Body Machine start then traverse rightwards past a belay and up the technical wall to a big hole in the break. Move slightly right again and then straight up the tufa line via superb moves. Enter the massive groove line above and get a sneaky rest at the Body Machine belay. Finally climb up to the giant roof and exit via very powerful moves to a belay up and right.
It needs to be stressed how loose and dangerous the top part of pitch3 is. I saw someone doing this route and big rocks were raining down onto the parking bay.
Full Prow (all pitches done as one) is never 8a, more like bottom end 7c+, not much harder than Proud Whore. The bottom two pitches run together make a 7c and there is then a hands off rest wedged across the bottom of the groove before pitch 3 (which is only 7b/7b+ on it's own).
Full Prow best done using the cruxy hard-to-grade (E5 6c!) Body Machine direct start and tie into both ends of 70m rope. At the Revelations belay you can stand comfortably and drop one end. The top roof was glued up a few years ago by Keith Sharples and is not as loose as generally made out to be. I added a final bolt making the summit push to the Crucifixion belay a more attractive option. A 3 star experience as they say. 7c+ for the reasons (Jon)Boy stated.
I found a good way of clipping the bolt on the lip of the roof on pitch 3. From the huge glued jug on the left under the roof for LH, get heel/toe cam in hold out right then reach up for the good pocket for the RH up in the groove. Then get toe hook for LF under roof in flake and reach up to big chalked hold for LH as a sort of 'guppy'. With the RF heel toe cam still in, you can now easily drop the clip in. Much better then running it out!