Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 38
A great historic route that still regularly repels attempts. A desperate start (which has got harder over the years) using a poor pocket gains the groove and a knee-bar rest. Swing out right, then pull up and onto the technical slab to the lower-off.
ahhhh man. There is no way this is 8A+. The top maybe only 7C, but the pocket move has to warrent 8B! Thats how hard it is!
Right, before the guide comes out, no way is this 8b. One pocket strength-specific move into a 7c does not an 8b make.
rupert, that depends ho hard the "One pocket strength-specific move" is.
True. How about, 'one font 7c move into a 7c route, does not make it into an 8b'?
Rupert you're too strong, and let's remember you did powerband footless, one might say pockets are your cup of tea!
8a+ /8b? it's a close call. If you are an Font8a boulderer it's probably 8a+ but if you're not I can see why people think it's 8b. Problem is it's the sort of move normally found on a bouldery 8c/+. Whatever it's an absolute belter with jugs, crimps, hands off rest, run out slab all on perfect rock. Just get on that move and tick what is probably in the top 3 famous routes in the world.
Agreed this is a font 7c (V9) into a french 7c route. Don't think 8b as the start move is very hard but doable once wired. The right heel toe cam under the roof helps massively once in just the right place as does a bit of persistence! Realistically 8a+ and too classic to be a soft touch at the grade above.